Thursday, March 8, 2012

Day 1: Hiker 99 (Approach Trail to Black Gap Shelter)


Day 1:  Hiker 99 (Approach Trail to Black Gap Shelter):


We woke up in the morning to the smell of pancakes and eggs, as cooked by the Hostel owners.  Everyone downstairs was already buzzing with anticipation.  “GI Jayne”, “Two Isles”, and “Gung-ho and Tagalong” from Cincinnati, Las Vegas and Michigan respectively were on their way up to Springer to begin the AT that day.  Azalon and I, on the other hand, decided to walk the infamous steps at Amicalola Falls State Park.  At 729 feet, Amicalola Falls is the tallest cascade in the southeast, according to the Georgia State Parks website (http://www.gastateparks.org/AmicalolaFalls).  Along with the 500+ steps up the falls, the Approach Trail adds 8.8 miles to the front of the AT.  As these miles are not technically considered part of the AT, many thru-hikers choose to skip this section. 


At the Amicalola Falls visitors center, there is a scale for backpacks and a sign-in for AT thru-hikers.  Amazingly, Azalon’s pack only showed 38lbs on the scale (though I’m sure he had no water).  My pack weighed 39lbs (w/ 6.6lbs of water and 8.5lbs food… I immediately noted that I was carrying too much food).  With this information, we walked inside to sign the thru-hiker register.  The page was open to the 90’s, ending in 100.  Azalon signed in as hiker #91.  But, always having to make trouble, I half-jokingly asked the young ranger at the counter if I could sign in as hiker #99.  Without hesitation he said, “Go right ahead.”  I stopped and asked, “Are you sure?”  Again, he responded, “Sure.  It’s no problem.”  “Cool!” I said loudly as I signed in next to #99.  But, not two seconds after I finished signing in, a much older ranger came into the room and raised his voice, “You can’t do that!  He’s supposed to sign in at the bottom.  Now it’s all screwed up!”  It seemed like a good time to take a look at the famous “Arch”, so we quickly slipped out the door to take some photos and begin our hike. 


On our way up the Falls, we ran into a 71 year old man from Grants, New Mexico, named Eli Jahanovich, who was toting an external frame pack up the stairs.  He said he was going to go as far as he could go on the AT, but wasn’t planning on going the whole way (no one else seems to have run into him since that day).  Further down the Trail, we ran into “Momma and Papa Bear” taking a break on the side of the trail.  This couple is from Wisconsin and in their early 40’s and 50’s respectively.  I don’t want to sound disrespectful in any way, but Momma Bear is quite overweight (and I would later find out that she is a breast cancer survivor).  Both she and Pappa Bear looked very tired already, but both were in fantastic spirits and very friendly towards Azalon and me.  I was very happy to begin making some trail friends.  As Azalon and I walked on, he said to me, “Man, dat takes some balls.” I agreed that it was amazing and inspiring.
After a day of hiking in beautiful 55-65 degree weather, we finally arrived at Black Gap Shelter for the night.  A little while later, another 30-something hiker named Erik wandered into the shelter.  It turns out that we had met each other in the “Hiker Trash 2012” group on Facebook just before I left for Asheville.  He is originally from Clearwater, FL (near Tampa) and currently living in Franklin, NC.  A little before dark, a final couple walked into camp.  Simone and Boas were both in their early 30’s and all the way from Switzerland.  As they were only issued a 6 month visa, they have a fixed time table to complete the AT, so they planned on making serious miles right away.  After dinner, they offered everyone about 2 dozen heart-shaped swiss chocolates wrapped in red foil, which disappeared quickly.  Just around dark, there was a headlamp just outside camp but they never came by to say hi.  We could hear him chopping at trees with a hatchet or something.  We joked that it was a sasquatch banging on trees.  Since we never found out who it was, we decided to dub him the “headlamp sasquatch”.  It was a little warm that night for my down sleeping bag, which remained unzipped the whole night.    


Day 0: Keep Up the Good Work. You Will Be Rewarded. (Asheville to Hiker’s Hostel)



Day 0:  Keep Up the Good Work.  You Will Be Rewarded. (Asheville to Hiker’s Hostel)


I woke up on the morning of February 27th in Asheville expecting to be picked up by someone I had not yet met.  A couple years ago, my younger brother Devin had allowed his friend Jordan to stay in the Asheville house for a few weeks while he was in between living situations.  Jordan was more than happy to be able to return the favor and promptly arrived for our journey.  We raced off through the winding roads leading to Dahlonega, near Helen, Georgia.  If anyone is familiar with the famous “Dragon’s Tail” section of road in North Carolina, our last stretch of driving was the same State Road 129, just much further south in Georgia.  Unfortunately, about a mile from the Hiker’s Hostel, Jordan’s brakes started making this horrible grinding noise. 


We limped the car the last mile up to the Hiker’s Hostel (http://www.hikerhostel.com), which we were sure was going to be a run down, shack-looking place full of a bunch of dirty, smelly hiker types.  What we found was a fancy log cabin style house… that certainly had a shack in the back somewhere for the hikers.  To my surprise, the 3-story log cabin had 2 hostel rooms upstairs, a common area with TV and couches, dining room, and hostel kitchen on the main floor, and additional rooms, futons, common area and a hiker’s kitchen on the basement floor.  Each area was nicely decorated with photos of various mountain landscapes, peaks in Patagonia and previous thru-hikers at the summit of Katahdin.  The Hostel owners, Joshua and Leigh Staint, are a young married couple who had previously thru-hiked the AT together and recently renovated a classic VW bus formerly owned by Earl Shaffer (the first documented AT thru-hiker and the oldest thru-hiker when he did it again in 1998 at age 80).  They were very friendly and were happy to answer any questions (or do your laundry for just $3).  Shuttles went out each afternoon to Dahlonega’s Walmart and outfitter for no charge. 




Josh showed me to my bunk bed upstairs.  Another hiker had already spread out his gear on one of the lower bunks.  I took the other lower bunk and introduced myself as Birdman.  “Azalon” (trailname) is from Pennsylvania, but has Puerto Rican roots and a light accent.  His giant backpack, 4-panel solar charger, tablet and droid phone are spread out in a sea of other gear.  Azalon tells me that his nephew had originally planned on joining him but had pulled out at the last minute leaving him with extra gear, including a heavy Coleman 3-man tent that he referred to as his “log”.  After shuttling to town to check out the outfitter and have a microbrewed beer at the local Italian joint (I do not recommend the beer or the pasta…), I offered to perform an equipment shakedown for Azalon, to which he agreed.  He took out most of what he looked to have in his pack (though I know he was hoarding some things) and spread them out on the floor.  Already knowing he was attached to his technology, I was looking for the next most obvious items to help him part with.  Immediately, I noticed the Rambo-sized survival knife.  I contained my shock and asked him, “Do you have more than one knife?”  He responded, “Yeah.  I think I have one wit my cook set.”  I simply replied, “Well, you might consider just bringing one knife.”  Azalon thought for a moment.  “I guess dat’s true,” he said, as he put the Rambo knife in the large box of other things he had already set aside to send home.  With little effort, we set aside roughly 15lbs worth of stuff for his box and celebrated by ordering Chinese delivery.  My fortune:  “Keep up the good work.  You will be rewarded.”

The First Week on the Trail...



The First Week on the Trail. 

Where do I even begin?  This one week trip has certainly been one of the most epic outdoor trips I’ve ever taken… and the AT has just begun.  More than 78 miles of hiking in 8 days.  Temperatures ranging from 20 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit.  Weather ranging from clear blue skys to howling winds, freezing rain to snow flurries, and even lightning storms and tornados.  From sweating in our sleeping bags to wearing every stich of clothing we had and still being chilled.  What a week! 



To make this easier for me to write, let’s start at the beginning.  I will be publishing 1 day at a time...